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Nestled in the heart of South Africa's Karoo, the town of Aberdeen stands as a testament to the region's rich historical tapestry and architectural wonder. Located about 50km southwest of Graaff-Reinet, Aberdeen is shaded by the imposing Camdeboo Mountains, offering a slice of serenity and a treasure trove of stories for those who encounter it.
One can't talk about Aberdeen without mentioning the iconic Pagel House Bed and Breakfast. This establishment dates back to 1897, a period of economic prosperity brought on by the pre-World War 1 ostrich feather boom. RC Logie, a wealthy trader, built this Victorian mansion originally known as Claremont House, which Frank Wilke later acquired and renamed after Wilhelm Pagel, a celebrated circus strongman.
The current keeper of Pagel House, Lynette Dugmore, reveals her journey back to these landscapes of the Eastern Cape, indicating a sense of liberation and peace unlike any other. Her connection to this Victorian masterpiece began with a simple property advertisement in a magazine, prompting her eventual purchase in 2001 – a decision that led her to the profound freedom she cherishes today.
Stepping outside the confines of Pagel House, Aberdeen whispers tales and legends of bygone eras. The mysterious bedstead in the veld serves as a melancholic relic of love lost, highlighting the hardships faced by early trekkers in the Karoo. This poignant site continues to spark curiosity, urging travelers to pay their respects from a distance, obeying the local farmer's wishes to protect his land from trespassers.
The Aberdeen NG Mother Church punctuates the town's skyline with one of the tallest, albeit slightly leaning, steeples in the country. Beyond its imposing structure lies a peaceful olive tree, a direct connection to the biblical Garden of Gethsemane, offering a profound sense of history and spirituality within the church grounds.
A quirkier element of Aberdeen's charm is the tale of the griffins perched upon the old post office building, now the magistrates’ court, renowned for their uncanny resemblance to dragons – adding a layer of whimsical uniqueness to the town.
Yet, the heartbeat of Aberdeen doesn't stop with mere structures. The surrounding Camdeboo Mountains cradle stories of innovation, such as the standing Cango engines, once crucial to illuminating the famous Cango Caves. These engines, constructed by Crossley of Manchester, echo a time when manual processes powered significant attractions – now proudly on display at Waterkloof Farm.
Waterkloof Farm itself is a haven for visitors, offering a glimpse into the rich agricultural history of the Karoo. The Lategan family, custodians of the farm, share their passion for the land and the ancient engine with interested guests, ensuring the past continues to thrive in the present conversations.
For those captivated by the allure of Aberdeen and the Eastern Cape Karoo, Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit offer a literary journey through their publications, inviting readers to visualize and experience the heart of small-town South Africa in vivid black and white.
Aberdeen and its surroundings represent a confluence of serenity, heritage, and innovation – an emblematic slice of the South African narrative. As a destination, it promises to enchant historians, architects, and travelers alike, beckoning with the familiar comfort of home and the adventure of discovery.