Global Brands' Waste Burnt in Cambodia Raising Health and Environmental Concerns

A recent report detailed by the Cambodian League for the Promotion and Defense of Human Rights (LICADHO) unveiled a worrying connection between waste from international brands and health issues among workers in Cambodian brick factories. The investigation, carried out through visits to 21 brick factories around Phnom Penh and interviews with workers, found that garment waste from brands like Adidas, Walmart, and 17 others is being used as a cheap alternative fuel, with adverse effects on the workforce.

The LICADHO report, conducted from April to September, pointed out that pre-consumer garment waste comprising various materials has been burnt in seven factories to cut down on fuel expenses. Workers at these factories have reported multiple health issues, including headaches and respiratory problems, with some conditions exacerbated during pregnancy.

The burning of garment waste is not without environmental impact. When materials such as plastic, rubber, and treated fabrics are incinerated, hazardous substances including dioxins can be released into the atmosphere, posing cancer risks. This was supported by insights from an internal UN Development Programme study in 2020 that measured emissions from similar practices at Cambodian garment factory incinerators.

Furthermore, research from the UK's Royal Holloway, University of London, in 2018 highlighted that clothing scraps can contain an array of toxic chemicals and heavy metals, which are dangerous when inhaled or released into the environment.

LICADHO named the 19 brands implicated, ranging from sportswear giants like Adidas and Reebok to fashion retailers such as Primark and Lidl. Many of these companies have launched investigations following the report's release. Adidas, in particular, has begun probing whether waste is being improperly diverted from authorized disposal routes.

In response to environmental policies, Adidas and other companies maintain that their waste should be directed to approved waste-to-energy plants with stringent air quality controls or to certified recycling centers. Lidl and LPP are among the brands that have recognized the issue and expressed intentions to improve waste management practices.

Primark, sourcing from 20 factories in Cambodia, is also investigating the matter. Tilley Endurables has undertaken further inquiries and confirmed its association with factories that are compliant with international standards, such as WRAP-audited establishments, and use licensed waste removal services. Other brands, along with WRAP, the Cambodian Ministry of Environment, and Sarom Trading, the waste collection company, have not yet issued comments.

The LICADHO report brings to light critical issues surrounding responsible waste management and the need for greater transparency in the supply chains of multinational companies. As brands are held accountable for their environmental footprint, the narrative extends beyond corporate responsibility, touching upon the right to a safe working environment and sustainable practices that protect both human health and the planet.